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Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

11 April 2012

Roland Barthes: disease of thinking in essences, which is at the bottom of every bourgeois mythology of man (which is why we come across it so often).

The Blue Guide - from: Mythologies
by Roland Barthes


The Blue Guide (* Hachette World Guides, dubbed 'Guide Bleu' in French) hardly knows the existence of scenery except under the guise of the picturesque. The picturesque is found any time the ground is uneven. We find again here this bourgeois promoting of the mountains, this old Alpine myth (since it dates back to the nineteenth century) which Gide rightly associated with Helvetico-Protestant morality and which has always functioned as a hybrid compound of the cult of nature and of puritanism (regeneration through clean air, moral ideas at the sight of mountain-tops, summit-climbing as civic virtue, etc.). Among the views elevated by the Blue Guide to aesthetic existence, we rarely find plains (redeemed only when they can be described as fertile), never plateaux. Only mountains, gorges, defiles and torrents can have access to the pantheon of travel, inasmuch, probably, as they seem to encourage a morality of effort and solitude. Travel according to the Blue Guide is thus revealed as a labour-saving adjustment, the easy substitute for the morally uplifting walk. This in itself means that the mythology of the Blue Guide dates back to the last century, to that phase in history when the bourgeoisie was enjoying a kind of new-born euphoria in buying effort, in keeping its image and essence without feeling any of its ill-effects. It is therefore in the last analysis, quite logically and quite stupidly, the gracelessness of a landscape, its lack of spaciousness or human appeal, its verticality, so contrary to the bliss of travel, which account for its interest. Ultimately, the Guide will coolly write: 'The road becomes very picturesque (tunnels)': it matters little that one no longer sees anything, since the tunnel here has become the sufficient sign of the mountain; it is a financial security stable enough for one to have no further worry about its value over the counter.

Just as hilliness is overstressed to such an extent as to eliminate all other types of scenery, the human life of a country disappears to the exclusive benefit of its monuments. For the Blue Guide, men exist only as 'types'. In Spain, for instance, the Basque is an adventurous sailor, the Levantine a light-hearted gardener, the Catalan a clever tradesman and the Cantabrian a sentimental highlander. We find again here this disease of thinking in essences, which is at the bottom of every bourgeois mythology of man (which is why we come across it so often). The ethnic reality of Spain is thus reduced to a vast classical ballet, a nice neat commedia dell'arte, whose improbable typology serves to mask the real spectacle of conditions, classes and professions. For the Blue Guide, men exist as social entities only in trains, where they fill a 'very mixed' Third Class. Apart from that, they are a mere introduction, they constitute a charming and fanciful decor, meant to surround the essential part of the country: its collection of monuments.

If one excepts its wild defiles, fit for moral ejaculations, Spain according to the Blue Guide knows only one type of space, that which weaves, across a few nondescript lacunae, a close web of churches, vestries, reredoses, crosses, altar-curtains, spires (always octagonal), sculpted groups (Family and Labour), Romanesque porches, naves and life-size crucifixes. It can be seen that all these monuments are religious, for from a bourgeois point of view it is almost impossible to conceive a History of Art which is not Christian and Roman Catholic. Christianity is the chief purveyor of tourism, and one travels only to visit churches. In the case of Spain, this imperialism is ludicrous, for Catholicism often appears there as a barbaric force which has stupidly defaced the earlier achievements of Muslim civilization: the mosque at Cordoba, whose wonderful forest of columns is at every turn obstructed by massive blocks of altars, or a colossal Virgin (set up by Franco) denaturing the site which it aggressively dominates all this should help the French bourgeois to glimpse at least once in his life that historically there is also a reverse side to Christianity.

Generally speaking; the Blue Guide testifies to the futility of all analytical descriptions, those which reject both explanations and phenomenology: it answers in fact none of the questions which a modern traveller can ask himself while crossing a countryside which is real and which exists in time. To select only monuments suppresses at one stroke the reality of the land and that of its people, it accounts for nothing of the present, that is, nothing historical, and as a consequence, the monuments themselves become undecipherable, therefore senseless. What is to be seen is thus constantly in the process of vanishing, and the Guide becomes, through an operation common to all mystifications, the very opposite of what it advertises, an agent of blindness. By reducing geography to the description of an uninhabited world of monuments, the Blue Guide expresses a mythology which is obsolete for a part of the bourgeoisie itself. It is unquestionable that travel has become (or become again) a method of approach based on human realities rather than 'culture': once again (as in the eighteenth century, perhaps) it is everyday life which is the main object of travel, and it is social geography, town-planning, sociology, economics which outline the framework of the actual questions asked today even by the merest layman. But as for the Blue Guide, it still abides by a partly superseded bourgeois mythology, that which postulated (religious) Art as the fundamental value of culture, but saw its 'riches' and 'treasures' only as a reassuring accumulation of goods (cf. the creation of museums). This behaviour expressed a double urge: to have at one's disposal a cultural alibi as ethereal as possible, and to maintain this alibi in the toils of a computable and acquisitive system, so that one could at any moment do the accounts of the ineffable. It goes without saying that this myth of travel is becoming quite anachronistic, even among the bourgeoisie, and I suppose that if one entrusted the preparation of a new guide-book to, say, the lady-editors at L'Express or the editors of Match, we would see appearing, questionable as they would still probably be, quite different countries: after the Spain of Anquetil or Larousse, would follow the Spain of Siegfried, then that of Fourastié. Notice how already, in the Michelin Guide, the number of bathrooms and forks indicating good restaurants is vying with that of 'artistic curiosities': even bourgeois myths have their differential geology.

It is true that in the case of Spain, the blinkered and old-fashioned character of the description is what is best suited to the latent support given by the Guide to Franco. Beside the historical accounts proper (which are rare and meagre, incidentally, for it is well known that History is not a good bourgeois), those accounts in which the Republicans are always 'extremists' looting churches - but nothing on Guernica - while the good 'Nationalists', on the contrary, spend their time 'liberating', solely by 'skilful strategic manoeuvres' and 'heroic feats of resistance', let me mention the flowering of a splendid myth-alibi: that of the prosperity of the country. Needless to say, this prosperity is 'statistical' and 'global', or to be more accurate: 'commercial'. The Guide does not tell us, of course, how this fine prosperity is shared out: hierarchically, probably, since they think it fit to tell us that 'the serious and patient effort of this people has also included the reform of its political system, in order to achieve regeneration through the loyal application of sound principles of order and hierarchy.'

01 March 2012

That the native does not like the tourist is not hard to explain. For every native of every place is a potential tourist, and every tourist is a native of somewhere.




From A Small Place by Jamaica Kincaid.

“That the native does not like the tourist is not hard to explain.  For every native of every place is a potential tourist, and every tourist is a native of somewhere.  Every native everywhere lives a life of overwhelming and crushing banality and boredom and desperation and depression, and every deed, good and bad, is an attempt to forget this.  Every native would like to find a way out, every native would like a rest, every native would like a tour.  But some natives – most natives in the world – cannot go anywhere.  They are too poor.  They are too poor to go anywhere.  They are too poor to escape the reality of their lives; and they are too poor to live properly in the place where they live, which is the very place you, the tourist, want to go – so when the natives see you, the tourist, they envy you, they envy your ability to leave your own banality and boredom, they envy your ability to turn their own banality and boredom into a source of pleasure for yourself .” 




05 January 2012

19 Web Sites for Travel Savings in 2012, by Michelle Higgins

HIGHER hotel prices, airline capacity cuts and rising travel demand mean travelers will have to work harder to find a good deal in 2012. But there are plenty of online tools to help keep your vacation expenses in check. Here are 19 go-to Web sites to help you save money this year.

FLIGHTS
 
Looking for sales on a specific route, or just want to go somewhere cheap? AirfareWatchdog.com hunts down deals computers tend to miss, like promo codes airlines include in e-mail newsletters. It also finds sales from Allegiant and Southwest, which typically aren’t listed on major airfare search engines. You can sign up for specific fare alerts or a list of all the cheap round-trip fares from your local airport.

Where can you go for $500 or less? Kayak.com/explore will show you where you can vacation for a particular price and display the results on a map. You can narrow your search by month, region, flight length, weather or activity. Clicking on a price reveals dates the fare is available.

If you already know where you want to go, use Itasoftware.com to find the cheapest dates to fly. Click on “airfare search” in the middle of the home page, then enter your departure date and destination and select “see calendar of lowest fares.” To purchase, you must go to the airline’s Web site or online agencies like Travelocity.

To figure out whether to buy that plane ticket now or wait, go to Bing.com/travel. Its Price Predictor can determine how likely a fare is to rise or fall during the next seven days from more than 250 cities in the United States to top domestic destinations and major hubs in Europe. The site claims that its predictions are about 75 percent accurate and save customers more than $50 on average for a round trip.

After you’ve booked your tickets at an airline site, enter your flight information at Yapta.com to track the price so you don’t miss out on savings if the price drops. If the difference in price exceeds the rebooking fee (typically $75 to $150), Yapta will send you, without charge, an e-mail or tweet so you can call the airline to claim the credit.

HOTELS
 
To get the best deal on Priceline.com, where travelers name their own price and pay before learning the hotel’s name, sites like Biddingfortravel.com and Betterbidding.com have long offered strategic advice on how to game the system. Now, a new site, Biddingtraveler.com, goes a step further. Enter the city, dates, neighborhood and star ratings for the hotel you want. Then, after reviewing the site’s recommendations, enter a “lowball” bid and “final offer.” The Bidding Traveler then calculates and helps you execute the optimal bidding strategy on Priceline.

Not willing to gamble? Hotels.com offers nearly 145,000 properties in more than 60 countries from national chain hotels and all-inclusive resorts to bed-and-breakfasts. You can find particularly good last-minute deals on Tuesdays and Thursdays. And the site has a loyalty program through which members earn a free-night voucher after they book 10 nights.

 For hotel fanciers, Luxurylink.com, offers discounts on high-end hotels and villas through online auctions and deals. Just last month the site was auctioning off a five-night package at La Samanna on St. Martin in the Caribbean that included a deluxe ocean-view room with a private terrace, airport transfers, a bottle of rum upon arrival, two 45-minute massages and a one-day car rental with a minimum starting bid of $2,475. The package normally costs $6,171.

VACATION RENTALS
 
As hotel prices rise, vacation rentals can be the better deal. HomeAway.com offers more than 290,000 listings in 145 countries, including rentals by owners that cut out the middleman.
Airbnb.com connects travelers with locals who are offering a place to stay, whether it is a couch, a private apartment or a castle. It currently has about 100,000 listings in 19,000 cities and towns in 192 countries, and charges booking fees from 6 to 12 percent. Wimdu.com offers a similar service focused mostly on places in Europe with 35,000 listings across 100 countries. Do as much due diligence as you can when using such sites; some hosts have been known to cancel confirmed reservations at the last minute.

For luxury seekers, Jetsetter.com/homes, a members-only site, offers discounts of up to 50 percent on 5 to 10 carefully selected vacation rentals. Membership is free and by invitation only. You can also request a free membership on Jetsetter.com.

EVERYTHING ELSE
 
Tired of sifting through daily-deal or group-shopping sites like Groupon and LivingSocial for local bargains? YipIt.com, collects those deals from 787 services in 118 North American cities. Travelers who sign up with an e-mail can filter results by checking categories like wine tasting, museum, golf or other activities. A recent search for restaurant and spa deals in New York turned up a $60 three-course dinner for two with wine (worth $136) at Tenpenny, the Gotham Hotel’s restaurant, and a $199 Moroccan Spa treatment at the Trump SoHo, worth $339. Pay close attention to expiration dates to be sure the deals will be good for your travel plans.

Autoslash.com searches the Web for discount coupons on car rentals and applies them after you book. It then continually checks for lower rates and coupons until your trip date and automatically applies any discounts it finds.

Cayole.com lets you search cruises by price, destination, room type or cruise line, then offers price predictions to give cruisers an idea of whether they should buy now or wait for a possible price drop. For example, by clicking “get more details” for a five-night Western Mediterranean cruise in September, the site recommended that travelers booking balcony cabins buy “as soon as possible, because prices are likely to increase.” For interior ocean-view rooms or suites it suggested waiting.
If you’re willing to swap places with a stranger, list your home and find travelers willing to trade on Homeexchange.com, which facilitates about 60,000 swaps a year. Recent listings included a two-bedroom apartment on Lake Como in Italy and a six-bedroom oceanfront lodge in Cape Town with a resident game ranger. Members pay $119.40 to list their home for a year or $47.85 for three months.

02 December 2011

The Essential Tao of Travel, by Paul Theroux








1. Leave home

2. Go alone

3. Travel light

4. Bring a map

5. Go by land

6. Walk across a national frontier

7. Keep a  journal

8. Read a novel that has no relation
to the place you're in

9. If you must bring a cell phone,
avoid using it.

10. Make a friend.

28 November 2011

Rebecca West's vast, complex book Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is more than a timeless guide to Yugoslavia - it is a portrait of the author's soul and of Europe on the brink of war

 

Journeys into history

Rebecca West's vast, complex book Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is more than a timeless guide to Yugoslavia - it is a portrait of the author's soul and of Europe on the brink of war. Geoff Dyer explores one of the neglected masterpieces of 20th-century travel writing
The author of guide- books should have no artistic personality. Entirely at the mercy of the place being written about, he or she is ideally an anonymous conduit of reliable information about bus times, places to stay and museum opening hours. At the other end of the spectrum, in his book Fiction, photographer Michael Ackerman claims that "places do not exist. A place is just my idea of it."

Literary travel writing thrives between the extremes represented by the travel guide and the solipsistic Ackerman. The best travel writers may be of only limited reliability when it comes to bus times but they express timeless truths about the buses of a given country - or at least about their relationship with those buses. Take DH Lawrence, whose responsiveness to places was both instantaneous and profound. Editors and publishers were keenly aware of this gift and Lawrence was eager to turn it to financial advantage.

When Rebecca West visited Norman Douglas in Florence in 1921 he joked that although Lawrence had been in town only a few hours he was probably already hammering out an article, "vehemently and exhaustively describing the temperament of the people". To West this seemed "obviously a silly thing to do", but Douglas was right: they turned up at Lawrence's hotel to find him doing just that. At the time West thought that Lawrence did not know enough about Florence "to make his views of real value". It was only after his death that she appreciated that he "was writing about the state of his own soul at that moment" and could only do so in symbolic terms. For this purpose "the city of Florence was as good a symbol as any other".

West wrote this in 1931. She had not yet made the first of the trips to Yugoslavia that would form the basis of Black Lamb and Grey Falcon but the importance of this realisation on her own magnum opus is considerable. Indeed, relative to the size of the finished book, her experience of Yugoslavia was pretty skimpy. As Edith Durham, a noted authority on the Balkans, bitchily put it at the time, "The novelist Miss West has written an immense book on the strength of one pleasure trip to Yugoslavia, but with no previous knowledge of land or people." For the record, Miss West had made three trips to Yugoslavia: the first, at the invitation of the British Council, to give lectures in the spring of 1936; a second with her husband, Henry Andrews, in the spring of 1937; the third in early summer of the following year.

Initially she had hoped quickly to write "a snap book"; four months after the second trip this potentially profitable venture had grown into a "wretched, complicated book that won't interest anybody".

In the course of researching its "long and complicated history" West learned and clarified her ideas about Yugoslavia - and about much else besides. To paraphrase Italo Calvino's comment on The Ruins of Kasch by Roberto Calasso, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon takes up two subjects: the first is Yugoslavia, and the second is everything else. By the time it was published - in two volumes totalling half a million words - West was somewhat at a loss to discover why she had been moved "in 1936 to devote five years of my life, at great financial sacrifice and to the utter exhaustion of my mind and body, to take an inventory of a country down to its last vest-button, in a form insane from any ordinary artistic or commercial point of view". As the "mass of [her] material" swelled and changed, so this "inventory" became an immense and immensely complicated picture not simply of her own soul but that of Europe on the brink of the second world war. The result, which she feared "hardly anyone will read by reason of its length", is one of the supreme masterpieces of the 20th century.

Like the book itself its reputation is rather odd. West is considered a major British writer. If she is not regarded as a writer quite of the first rank that is largely because so much of the work on which her reputation should rest is considered secondary to the forms in which greatness is expected to manifest itself, namely the novel. As a novelist West is clearly less important than James Joyce, Lawrence or EM Forster ("a self-indulgent old liberal with hardly a brain in his head," as West sharply deemed him). Her best work is scattered among reportage, journalism and travel - the kind of things traditionally regarded as sidelines or distractions.

The success of Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is due in no small part to the ingenuity with which she contains this tendency to dispersal by giving it free rein. The book is manifestly a work of literature, but since literature in English (at least as far as prose is concerned) is synonymous with the novel - with an agreed upon form of writing rather than a certain quality of writing - it is removed from the company in which it belongs. (When I mentioned to a novelist friend that I was writing this introduction she asked if the book was set in Yugoslavia; it was assumed to be a novel.) Palpably inferior works - novels - sit far more securely on the literary syllabus than this awkward tome that seems to topple from the top canonical shelf as soon as it is placed there. Since it takes up so much room Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is stocked on a lower, less prominent shelf.

Even some commentators who claim the book as a masterpiece have little to say about why it is one. In Abroad, Paul Fussell's highly regarded survey of "British literary travelling between the wars", West, unlike Waugh, Lawrence or Greene does not get a chapter-compartment to herself and her book receives a mention more or less in passing. Victoria Glendinning, in her biography of West, has no doubt that Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is "the central book of her life ... the work in which Rebecca West formulated her views on religion, ethics, art, myth and gender". Beyond that, she has almost nothing to say about it. Is the book doomed to repel attempts to articulate the awe that it inspires?

To try to make good this lack let's begin, uncontentiously, by observing that it is a key book about Yugoslavia. I read it in 1993 after visiting Serbia (for the British Council, as it happens) to learn about Yugoslavia - or ex-Yugoslavia, as it had by then become. The book had been reissued a few years earlier in response to the outbreak of a conflict West had, in some ways, foreseen. In the prologue, West remembers herself "peering" at old film footage of the king of Yugoslavia, "like an old woman reading the tea-leaves in her cup". The book's prophetic quality is hinted at as early as page 10, when West writes that "it is the habit of the people, whenever an old man mismanages his business so that it falls to pieces as soon as he dies, to say, 'Ah, So-and-so was a marvel! He kept things together so long as he was alive, and look what happens now he has gone!'"

I can still remember how weirdly disorienting it was to read this in 1993, when the blaze of contemporary events was fierce enough to make one wonder if she was writing not about Franz Josef, but Tito. Much later in the book, in Kosovo, West's chauffeur, Dragutin, grabs a Croat boy by the ear and says with a mixture of irony and threat, "We'll kill you all some day." Even in my own minuscule experience of Serbia and Montenegro there have been many times when the scene unfolding before my eyes seemed to have been faithfully enacted from the pages of Black Lamb and Grey Falcon.

As a book about Yugoslavia, then, it is of "extraordinary usefulness" - a kind of metaphysical Lonely Planet that never requires updating. (West herself observed, "sometimes it is necessary for us to know where we are in eternity as well as in time".) The book's practical worth is nicely suggested by the journalist Robert Kaplan, who remembers taking the book with him everywhere in Yugoslavia. "I would rather have lost my passport and money than my heavily thumbed and annotated copy of Black Lamb and Grey Falcon."

If you are not in - or interested in - the Balkan peninsula the number of pages devoted to the history of the region can seem off-putting. Except this is history as it might have been written by Ryszard Kapuscinski or Gabriel García Márquez. Take the extraordinary scene from Sarajevo in 1914 when, shortly before his assassination, Archduke Franz Ferdinand finds the reception hall he is standing in crammed with the half-million beasts he has killed in his career as a hunter:

One can conceive the space of this room stuffed all the way up to the crimson and gold vaults and stalactites with the furred and feathered ghosts, set close, because there were so many of them: stags with the air between their antlers stuffed with woodcock, quail, pheasant, partridge, capercaillie, and the like; boars standing bristling flank to flank, the breadth under their broad bellies packed with layer upon layer of hares and rabbits. Their animal eyes, clear and dark as water, would brightly watch the approach of their slayer to an end that exactly resembled their own.

When Susan Sontag directed Beckett's Waiting for Godot in Sarajevo during the siege it was widely felt that what was happening on stage offered some kind of absurdist commentary on events beyond the theatre. In a café in Mostar - a place which became stitched into international consciousness in the same way as Sarajevo - a comparable fable had unfolded before West's eyes in the 1930s:

Young officers moved rhythmically through the beams of white light that poured down upon the acid green of the billiard tables, and the billiard balls gave out their sound of stoical shock. There was immanent the Balkan feeling of a shiftless yet just doom. It seemed possible that someone might come into the room, perhaps a man who would hang up his fez, and explain, in terms just comprehensible enough to make it certain they were not nonsensical, that all the people at the tables must stay there until the two officers who were playing billiards at the moment had played a million games, and that by the result their eternal fates would be decided; and that this would be accepted, and people would sit there quietly waiting and reading the newspapers.

West's intention was "to show the past side by side with the present it created" and part of her achievement is to reveal how even an apparently ahistorical sensation - the scent of a plucked flower, say - is saturated with the smell of the past. Geography and history, to make the same point rather more sweepingly, cannot always be distinguished from one another - hence the way that certain places "imprint the same stamp on whatever inhabitants history brings them, even if conquest spills out one population and pours in another wholly different in race and philosophy". Impatient readers tempted to skip the historical bits are taking a big risk because the past - the narrative history - can melt into the immediate present with zero notice. The most spectacular instance comes after a lengthy disquisition - a bit too long, I was thinking - on events in Pristina during the reign of Stephen Dushan in the 14th century. After 20 pages or so we learn of his death:
In the 49th year of his life, at a village so obscure that it is not now to be identified, he died, in great pain, as if he had been poisoned. Because of his death many disagreeable things happened. For example, we sat in Pristina, our elbows on a tablecloth stained brown and puce, with chicken drumsticks on our plates meagre as sparrow-bones, and there came towards us a man and a woman; and the woman was carrying on her back the better part of a plough."

Isn't that the boldest jump-cut - the most daring time-shift, the most outrageous deduction - ever? And West does not stop there. The sight of this man and woman prompts her to return to one of the major themes of the book, the vexed relations of men and women.

Any area of unrestricted masculinism, where the women are made to do all the work and are refused the right to use their wills, is in fact disgusting, not so much because of the effect on the women, who are always taught something by the work they do, but because of the nullification of the men.

And West does not stop there, either - she loops this vision back to the death of Stephen Dushan before leaving the table to go to "a lavatory of the Turkish kind":

The dark hole in the floor, and something hieratic in the proportions of the place, made it seem as if dung, having been expelled by man, had set itself up as a new and hostile and magically powerful element that could cover the whole earth with dark ooze and sickly humidity ... I felt as if the place were soiling me with filth which I would never be able to wash off because it was stronger in its essence than mere mild soap and water.

And West does not stop there, either. The book's inexhaustible capacity for self-fuelling discussion, for examining the implications of everything that it touches upon, is central to West's structural and stylistic method. Any conclusions she draws are tied to the process (a key word in the book) by which they are being teased out. Something catches West's attention; the incident - a Mozart symphony coming on the radio in a restaurant on page 507, say - is conveyed with vivid immediacy. As West articulates and processes this experience, she takes us on a discursive journey into the furthest reaches of speculative thought before returning us to the exact spot or occasion from which we started. Franz Ferdinand's assassin, Princip, is in this way the active representative of the author's own purpose: "He offered himself wholly to each event in order that he might learn in full what revelation it had to make about the nature of the universe."

How, with this in mind, could Black Lamb and Grey Falcon have been anything other than a vast book? Even enthusiastic readers of Robert Fisk's The Great War for Civilisation are likely to feel that its impressive bulk is due solely to accumulation, to the mass of material contained in it. Black Lamb and Grey Falcon earns its size as a work of art. Like WH Auden in his "Letter to Lord Byron" (1936), West needed "a form that's large enough to swim in". The scale of its conception is imprinted internally in its syntax and composition.
Ostensibly convenient and alluring, the edited selection offered in The Essential Rebecca West feels like an aesthetic violation. There is, in fact, something inappropriate about reducing such a book to its essentials. I suspect that some of the passages that most delight me are, by the kind of limiting definition West repeatedly decries, the bits that might be considered inessential.

I don't want to diminish the importance of Black Lamb and Grey Falcon as a book about Yugoslavia; it is predicated on "a coincidence between the natural forms and colours of the western and southern parts of Yugoslavia and the innate forms and colours of [West's] imagination", but while many of the parts I value have their origin in they are not unique to that part of the world. A few examples from hundreds: the "erotic panic" of a horse which "rolls the eyes not only in fear but in enjoyment, that seeks to be soothed with an appetite revealing that it plainly knows soothing to be possible, and pursues what it declares it dreads"; the woman who had "the beauty of a Burne-Jones, the same air of having rubbed holes in her lovely cheeks with her clenched knuckles"; the Muslims for whom "the reward for total abstinence from alcohol seems, illogically enough, to be the capacity for becoming intoxicated without it".

Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is digressive and meandering - you never know what's going to happen next - but this is not to say that it is shapeless. It may sprawl - it is sprawling - but remember, for a start, how what is offered as an account of a single journey has in fact been stitched seamlessly together from three separate trips. Over time we have grown familiar with the complex organisation of works such as Bleak House or Ulysses; in contemporary fiction we admire the intricate interweaving of plot, character and themes in the novels of Ian McEwan. Making different demands on the reader's expectations of order, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon has the unity and fluidity of a sustained improvisation in prose. As with a saxophonist or trumpeter, the controlling factor, the thing that allows West to range so widely without ever losing her way, is tone. The book's bold demonstration of the way that tone can take over some of the load-bearing work of structure is crucial to its innovatory importance. Within an overall constancy of tone West moves easily between registers.

She can be witty: "The visit had been extraordinarily pleasant, though it had been nothing at all, and least of all a visit." She can be playful:

"Then why did we not bring the book?" asked my husband. "Well, it weighs just over a stone," I said. "I weighed it once on the bathroom scales." "Why did you do that?" asked my husband. "Because it occurred to me one day that I knew the weight of nothing except myself and joints of meat," I said, "and I just picked that up to give me an idea of something else."

She can be lyrical: "As we drew nearer the shore the water under the keel was pale emerald where the diving sunlight had found sand"; and fantastical at the same time:

Beyond the bridge the river widened out into a curd of yellow water-lilies, edged with a streak of mirror at each bank, in which willow trees, standing above t heir exact reflections, amazed us by their shrill green and cat-o'-thousand tails forms; they were like static fireworks.

As happens when she dismisses a woman she meets in a hotel in Bosnia, West can be abusive and intemperate: "she was cruelty; she was filth". Most surprising of all in a book of such length West has the gift of brevity: "We fell again through Swissish country"; "A naked range as black as night, its high ridge starred with snow"; "the first heavy pennies of rain".

A few years after Black Lamb and Grey Falcon was published West sat down to consider a proposal from her American editor, Ben Huebsch, that she write a book on the British empire. It was something she would like to have done, but "except for the fancy bits on religion and metaphysics that I would throw in in my demented way", she decided, there was nothing new she could contribute to such a study. It is, of course, these "demented" bits that make Black Lamb and Grey Falcon a great book of ideas. (It sounds a little odd, that phrase, doesn't it, compared with the way that "a novel of ideas" trips so unthinkingly off the tongue?) In the epilogue, West comments on the way that, in her teens, Ibsen "corrected the chief flaw in English literature, which is a failure to recognise the dynamism of ideas". With characteristic vehemence she later decided that "Ibsen cried out for ideas for the same reason that men call out for water, because he had not got any."

To say that West has them by the gallon is an understatement. Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is, along with everything else, a great flood of ideas. As with Lawrence it is impossible to say where sensation stops and cogitation begins. Observation and metaphysics, thought and responsiveness to "the visibility of life", are all the time flowing into each other.

The book's biggest idea is also its simplest, so simple that it should be no more than a preference "for the agreeable over the disagreeable". The problem is that:

only part of us is sane: only part of us loves pleasure and the longer day of happiness, wants to live to our nineties and die in peace, in a house that we built, that shall shelter those who come after us. The other half of us is nearly mad. It prefers the disagreeable to the agreeable, loves pain and its darker night despair, and wants to die in a catastrophe that will set back life to its beginnings and leave nothing of our house save its blackened foundations.

As West wrote this Europe was hurtling towards just such a catastrophe; in 1993, when I first read Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, TV screens were full of images of the blackened foundations of houses in the very places she had described. West had enough of the disagreeable in her nature to realise that an affirmation of the agreeable is part of an ongoing personal and political struggle. Her faith in this idea is echoed by Auden in the commentary appended to his sonnet sequence In Time of War (published in 1938 while West was immersed in writing her book):

It's better to be sane than mad, or liked than dreaded;

It's better to sit down to nice meals than to nasty;

It's better to sleep two than single; it's better to be happy.

In both cases the modesty of the conclusion is proof of its wisdom - and vice-versa. Black Lamb and Grey Falcon is a vast, ambitious and complex book which repeatedly stresses the kinship between homely and universal truths. By making a cake for friends, West insists, "one is striking a low note on a scale that is struck higher up by Beethoven and Mozart". In Montenegro, West encounters a woman who is trying to understand the many hard things that have befallen her. The meeting persuades West that if "during the next million generations there is but one human being born in every generation who will not cease to inquire into the nature of his fate, even while it strips and bludgeons him, some day we shall read the riddle of our universe". And if, once or twice a century, a book like this appears, the wait will be only a fraction as long.

10 October 2011

CicLAvia Oct 9 2011

CicLAvia Oct 9 2011 by George Gibbs
CicLAvia Oct 9 2011, a photo by George Gibbs on Flickr.

CicLAvia Oct 9 2011CicLAvia Oct 9 2011        
Seven and a half miles of streets were car-free from 10 AM - 3 PM on Sunday October 10th 2010. In October 2011, we’re doing the initial route again, and adding new spurs to El Pueblo/Olvera Street and South LA, for a total of ten miles.

CicLAvia makes the streets safe for people to walk, skate, play and ride a bike. There are activities along the route. Shop owners and restaurants are encouraged to open their doors to people along the CicLAvia.

Ciclovías started in Bogotá, Colombia, over thirty years ago as a response to the congestion and pollution of city streets. Now they happen throughout Latin America and the United States.

Connecting communities and giving people a break from the stress of car traffic. The health benefits are immense. Ciclovías bring families outside of their homes to enjoy the streets, our largest public space. In Los Angeles we need CicLAvia more than ever. Our streets are congested with traffic, our air is polluted with toxic fumes, our children suffer from obesity and other health conditions caused by the scarcity of public space and safe, healthy transportation options. CicLAvia creates a temporary park for free, simply by removing cars from city streets. It creates a network of connections between our neighborhoods and businesses and parks with corridors filled with fun. We can’t wait to see you at CicLAvia!

12 September 2011

Bradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los Angeles

Bradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los Angeles
Bradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los Angeles
Bradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los Angeles
Bradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los AngelesBradbury Building and surrounding area, Downtown Los Angeles
From Wikipedia:

The Bradbury Building is an architectural landmark in Los Angeles, California. The building was built in 1893 and is located at 304 South Broadway (at 3rd Street) in downtown.

Architecture

The building itself features an Italian Renaissance Revival -style exterior facade of brown brick, sandstone and panels of terra cotta details, in the "commercial Romanesque Revival" that was the current idiom in East Coast American cities. But the magnificence of the building is the interior: reached through the entrance, with its low ceiling and minimal light, it opens into a bright naturally lit great center court.

Robert Forster, star of the TV series Banyon that used the building for his office, described it as "one of the great interiors of L.A. Outside it doesn't look like much, but when you walk inside, suddenly you're back a hundred and twenty years."[5]

The five-story central court features glazed brick, ornamental cast iron, tiling, rich marble, and polished wood, capped by a skylight that allows the court to be flooded with natural rather than artificial light, creating ever-changing shadows and accents during the day.

The elevators, which go up to the fifth floor, are cage elevators that are surrounded by wrought-iron grillwork rather than masonry.

The entire main building features geometric patterned staircases at all ends. Ornately designed wrought-iron railings are used abundantly throughout the building to create the illusion of hanging vegetation.

The wrought-iron was created in France and displayed at the Chicago World's Fair before being installed in the building. Freestanding mail-chutes also feature ironwork.

The walls are made of pale glazed brick. The marble used in the staircase was imported from Belgium, and the floors are Mexican tiles.

06 September 2011

How to track travel rewards / awards

Tracking travel rewards


01 September 2011 | By Sean O'Neill
AwardWallet
AwardWallet, an internationally-minded rewards tracker, has both an iPhone and Android app.

From free flights to room upgrades, there are loads of travel-related freebies and discounts available to people who participate in frequent flier and other travel loyalty programs.

But many travellers don’t have the mental bandwidth to keep track of all the programs he or she has joined – let alone all of the special bonuses that can help them earn rewards faster. In the US, more than 70 million travellers belong to frequent flier programs, but only six million redeemed miles for flights in 2009, according to the consulting firm Market Platform Dynamics.

Back in the (sexist) 1960s, everyone who watched a James Bond movie took it for granted that his boss M would have a female assistant like Miss Moneypenny to book travel and track expenses. Nowadays, we all rely on computers, not secretaries, to keep tabs on our budgets and you don’t need to be a globetrotting super-spy to see the world. Here's a rundown of a few cutting-edge digital tools that help monitor your airline miles, credit card points and other reward programs.

Best bill-paying tool that also monitors your mileage program

Web-based, personal finance management services, similar in purpose to Quicken and Quickbooks software, are increasingly adding travel-related features to their offerings. PageOnce, available to US residents, remains the safest online service for bill-paying and managing personal accounts, partly because it does not store your checking account details, so no hacker can potentially come in and steal the information to drain your savings.

It takes some effort to input the membership numbers of your various loyalty programs. But after you've set things up, the site will continuously fetch the latest points balances, expiration dates and reward opportunities from all your flight, hotel, car rental and credit-card programs. Unlike other programs, you can sync PageOnce data with downloadable apps for iPhone, Blackberry and Android devices, allowing you to access your information on the go -- helpful if you want to request an upgrade for a hotel room or airplane at a moment's notice.

Best financial monitoring tool that helps you budget for your vacation

Mint
, owned by Quicken, is PageOnce's largest rival, with the same type of personal finance management and data security. Unlike PageOnce, Mint doesn't currently have mileage tracking as a service, though that functionality will be added soon. Yet Mint does uniquely have a tool to help US and Canadian users plan their vacation budgets. Go to the site's vacation budgeting estimator and punch in your destination, the number of days you'll stay, the duration of your trip, number of people travelling and related information. The tool will then estimate how much plane tickets, hotels, rental cars and other major expenses will cost.

Most comprehensive and internationally-minded rewards tracker

Neither of the above mileage-and-points tracking tools is as comprehensive as the specialist site AwardWallet, which supports all of the world's major loyalty programs and is available to travellers worldwide. Founded in 2004, the free tool covers every large national travel company, from Amtrak to American Express to Diners Club, except for Southwest Airlines. AwardWallet alerts you when miles and points will expire, and these alerts are more timely and helpful than Mint's, given the site's actionable advice on how to keep miles and points active. AwardMiles also can also let you manage accounts for multiple family members. It has an unusually intuitive way of displaying any elite status you've earned, too.

Most interesting newcomer is the first ‘cash and reward search engine’

I'm also keeping an eye on new-this-year competitor service UsingMiles, which attempts to offer a similar tracking service to AwardWallet and also e-mails when your miles are in danger of expiring. I like its interface, but am disappointed that it doesn't support award programs for several major travel companies, such as Air Canada, Air France, American Express, Amtrak, Best Western, Hyatt, JetBlue and Virgin Atlantic. (Despite having "miles" in its name, UsingMiles also helps people track hotel, rail and rental car rewards.)

To its credit, UsingMiles tries to outdo AwardWallet by attempting a new trick: becoming the world's first search engine for cash and award travel, meaning that you can enter the name of your airline (or hotel chain or rental car company) and find products on which you can spend your award points. You can also compare the value of using points versus cash to make sure you're getting a solid deal. But the search engine has a similar problem in that it misses several a few major companies (Air France, LAN, etc) and thus misses the complete picture of travel opportunities you may be missing out on.

Best service for beginners learning the loyalty redemption game

One problem with all of the sites mentioned above is that they assume users understand their frequent flier programs and how to max out their rewards. The Travel Hacking Cartel charges a monthly fee (from $15) in exchange for text and e-mail alerts about travel reward opportunities along with marvellously straightforward (and mercifully brief) videos to help you get up to speed on the basics of earning travel points. The site is run by Chris Guillebeau, a writer and entrepreneur who has visited more than 150 countries and thus learned a lot about frequent flier programs.

Best service for folks who understand the basics and want to kick up their award-redemption skills a couple of notches

MilePoint
, a site that also debuted this year, offers a similar service as the Travel Hacking Cartel, but for free. MilePoint delivers lessons from Randy Petersen and other loyalty program gurus on everything you need to know to earn and redeem frequent-flier points quickly. The trade off for getting free information is that you have to put more work into making sense of it. The information is presented in a much less user-friendly format than the Travel Hacking Cartel (no videos, no e-mail or text alerts and no step-by-step guides). But it's hard to argue with free.

Sean O'Neill is the tech travel columnist for BBC Travel

31 August 2011

Jason Goodwin's top 10 books about Turkey

Encompassing poetry, history, fiction and even cookery, the author picks his favourite reading about this 'elusive and contradictory' country
  • guardian.co.uk,
  • Grand Bazaar, Istanbul
    A carpet seller in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar. Photograph: Patrick Ward/Corbis
    Jason Goodwin fell in love with Istanbul while studying Byzantine history at Cambridge. Since then, he has written a number of highly praised non-fiction books, including On Foot to the Golden Horn and Lords of the Horizons: A History of the Ottoman Empire. He has since begun his series of novels featuring Yashim, the Turkish eunuch detective.
    The first, The Januissary Tree (2006), was winner of the Edgar Allan Poe award for best novel. He followed this with The Snake Stone (2007) and The Bellini Card (2008). His newest Yashim novel, An Evil Eye is published by Faber.
    "Now the top destination for Mediterranean tourists, Turkey is rather more than a sunny spot on the beach. Home to successive civilisations from the ancient Hittites to the Romans, from Byzantium to the Ottoman Empire, this is a country forged by one man, Ataturk, in the 1920s, out of the rubble of a multi-national, multi-faith Ottoman empire. Almost a century later, the identity of the country is still elusive and contradictory. Turkey lies along so many fault-lines, between Europe and the Middle East, between the secularity of the state and popular faith, between a many-splendoured past and current explosive growth. The country's borders march from Armenia and Iraq to Bulgaria and Greece, from the rain-swept coast of the Black Sea to the indented waters of the Aegean, enclosing 21st century Istanbul as well as remote, almost Biblical landscapes of the interior. "Is Turkey slowly learning to live at ease with its history – or is it set to abandon the secularism of its founder? Is it still a candidate for EU membership – or has that moment passed? Fiction may sometimes bring the reader a closer sense of the shattering transformations as well as continuities of Turkish history. The following selection is influenced by my interest in 19th century Istanbul, where I chose to set my series of thrillers. Then, the Ottoman capital was grappling with the issues of modernity v tradition, nationalism v multiculturalism, the rule of law and the weight of custom, as well as defining its relationship with Europe and Russia. To visitors from the west, this was the east; easterners saw it as a window on the west. With its Greek, Armenian, Jewish minorities, Istanbul was then a cosmopolitan place; today, another multinational crowd strolls amongst the mementoes of imperial grandeur."

     

    1. Istanbul: Poetry of Place, edited by Ates Orga

    With Strolling Through Istanbul in one pocket, and this slim volume in the other, you should be perfectly equipped to explore the former capital of the Byzantine and the Ottoman empires. Packed with poetry and a little prose, Istanbul brings you the voices of the city's inhabitants, from sultans to modern-day feminists.

    2. Snow by Orhan Pamuk

    Complex, fragmentary, unreliable and poetic, this thoroughly postmodern novel abounds with puns, ironies, double-takes and imponderable conflicts of love, faith and social justice, reflecting not only aspects of the human condition but also of 20th-century Turkey's preoccupations with secularism, religious freedom and revolution. In the city of Kars, a young journalist, Ka, comes to investigate a spate of suicides relating to the wearing of headscarves – and opens up a kaleidoscopic world of claims, counter-claims and conflicting priorities.

    3. Turkey: a Short History by Norman Stone

    A fanfare for modern Turkey and a vivid, provocative, often funny, always insightful account of how it came about. Stone pulls together his accomplishments as a philoturk, a philologist, controversialist and narrative historian to sweep his readers along a short crash course in Turkish origins, their history and current challenges. If you don't really know why a portrait of Ataturk hangs in almost every shop in Turkey, read this book.

    4. Classical Turkish Cooking by Ayla Algar

    This may allow you to extend the highlights of your trip indefinitely. There are sexier cook books, but I like the austerity of this one, which expresses much that is gentle and domestic in Turkish culture, and then lets you eat it. Classical meze, soups, meat and fish dishes, and of course pilaffs and pastries – hundreds of recipes, with insights into the history and development of a world-class food culture.

    5. Turkish Letters by Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq

    The Flemish nobleman wrote his Letters while on an ambassadorial mission to Istanbul between 1554 and 1562, making him a brilliant eye-witness of the Ottoman state at its height, under Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Busbecq was a botanist, linguist, antiquarian, scholar and zoologist; he brought back lilac and the tulip.

    6. Constantinople: City of the World's Desire by Philip Mansel

    The definitive history of the city from 1453, by one of our finest historians, also explains how a multi-ethnic, polyglot empire was controlled by a single dynasty for more than 600 years. Mansel mines a vast range of sources to bring the fashions, pomp and politics of this ancient world capital to life.

    7. Birds without Wings by Louis de Bernières

    I keep picking this up – and putting it down again, because I can't quite face the onrushing tragedy. Needless to say, it's the story of a doomed love affair between Philotei and Ibrahim, as relations between Greece and Turkey collapse in the First World War; prelude to the massive population exchange of 1923, which ended Greek settlement of Asia Minor. Gallipoli is in it; so is Ataturk; so are some characters from Captain Corelli's Mandolin. De Bernières insists this is the better book and I believe him.

    8. Eothen by AW Kinglake

    The title, which means "from the east" is, as the author points out, the hardest thing in the book, a sly travel account purporting to be written by a Victorian hooray which makes for spectacularly funny reading. Jonathan Raban has described the narrator as having the "sensibility of someone who is a close blood-relative of Flashman": witness his thoroughly waspish account of a meeting with Lady Hester Stanhope. Typical, too, is his insouciance towards the plague in Cairo, which claims his heroic doctor while the narrator survives unmoved.

    9. A Short History of Byzantium by John Julius Norwich

    The three volumes of his magisterial history, boiled down into one, may seem too condensed at times, but Norwich deftly and entertainingly outlines the often outrageous story of an empire that lasted 1,123 years and 18 days. It is as good on Byzantine art and church matters as on the peccadilloes of the emperors – and their triumphs.

    10. Rebel Land by Christopher de Bellaigue

    Caught up in a journalistic furore after his mention of the Armenian massacres that occurred in the dying days of the Ottoman empire, Bellaigue decided to find out for himself what may have happened. He settled on – and in – the town of Varto, which once had a huge Armenian population. Without delivering any final answers, Bellaigue's beautifully written account of his experiences with locals, secret policemen and even exiles still sheds light on this intractable issue, if only to illuminate the complexity of the situation both then and now.

29 August 2011

Where are the best snorkeling spots in Hawaii?



From No Worries Hawaii, by Jerry & Janine Sprout.

BEGINNER SNORKELING
Easiest-entry, fish-filled calm waters to get you hooked on snorkeling.


KAUAI

BEACH HOUSE BEACH
     Dreary curbside appeal belies the coral heads, fish, and turtles.  Near Prince Kuhio Park, it's among Kauai's best.

POIPU BEACH
      Easy sandy entry at the beach park.  Not tons of fish.

Worth a look:  LYDGATE PARK (WAILUA)

OAHU

HANAUMA BAY NATURE PRESERVE
     Looks dreamy from above, but crowds and drab coral keep it a notch from the top.

MAGIC ISLAND
     Man-made pool at Ala Moana Park.

MAUI

KAMAOLE BEACH PARKS
     The rocky tips between the three beach parks in Kihei are home to fish and coral.  Nice sandy entries and not overcrowded.

LA PEROUSE BAY-AHIHI COVE
     Pristine waters off the jagged shore of Maui's most recent volcanic eruption.

ULUA-MOKAPU BEACHES
     Nice sandy nooks in front of Wailea's resorts with easy entry and near-shore coral.

BIG ISLAND

KAHALU'U BEACH PARK
     Kona's beach park is protected by a reef and supports acres of fish-filled coral.  The parking lot fills up early.

BEACH CLUB BEACH
     Fewer swimmers know the charms of this baby, located at the south end of the beaches at Mauna Lani Resort.

CARLSMITH BEACH PARK
     If the sun appeared more often, this county beach park with a huge man-made pool would score even higher.


AND THE WINNER IS...All the islands have choices, but MAUI edges the Big Island for the best snorkeling for beginners.


OVERALL GOOD SNORKELING
The best spots for intermediate to advanced snorkelers.

KAUAI

TUNNELS
     Coral boils down into a blue channel, off a sandy beach, rimmed by jagged "Bali Hai" mountain.  Parking is problematic; show up early or late.

KE'E BEACH
     At the Kalalau Trailhead, Ke'e gets hammered with footsteps on nice days.  But this big sandy-bottomed oval beneath Napali (The Cliffs) is worth the hassle.

LEHUA ISLAND
     You'll need to hop a charter at Port Allen and cruise 20 miles to the gin-clear water of this little bird sanctuary next to Ni'ihau.

Worth a look:  HIDEAWAYS-KENOMENE BEACH (Princeville); ANINI BEACH, AHUKINI LANDING (Lihue Airport); WHALER'S COVE (Poipu-Kuhio); HOUSE BEACH (Anahola)

OAHU


MAKAI RESEARCH PIER
     Tour companies van people to this easy-entry coral garden on the Windward Side.  You swim around near the pilings of the dock house for the little subs used by the University of Hawaii.

THREE TABLES-SHARK'S COVE
     Close-together "snorkeling parks" on the North Shore, in Pupukea.  Usually summer only.  Lots of interesting formations.

CROMWELL'S COVE
     A sense of place:  beautiful cove at Black Point, near the ritzy mansion of Shangri-La.  The fab place was the 1937 vision of heiress Doris Duke, queen of the arts.


Worth a look:  LANIKAI BEACH (Kailua); GOAT ISLAND (Windward-north); KAHE POINT (West Side); KAIONA BEACH PARK (Waimanalo); KALUAHOLE BEACH (Diamond Head); ALLIGATOR ROCK (North Shore); and MOKOLI'I ISLAND (Chinaman's Hat-Windward)


MAUI

HONOLUA MARINE PRESERVE
     After walking down the highway from a parking lot, crossing a stream under a giant banyan, and arriving at a rocky beach, you may have doubts.  Then get in the water and go flying over fish-rich coral hillocks.

CHANG'S POINT-TURTLE TOWN
     Entry can be chancy from the lava spit, but not bad.  Tour boats anchor within 200 feet of shore.  Yes, there are turtles.


MOLOKINI ISLAND
     Join the crew of the flotilla of boats that take the short cruise to the volcanic crescent island three miles offshore Kihei.  Visibility and marine life are right up there with the best in Hawaii.

KALAELOA COVE (AQUARIUM)
      All that a'a lava (the sharp kind) on shore translates to very clear water.  Lots of people, occasionally too many, make the pesky half-mile hike.

OLOWALU BEACH
     Roadside parking and easy sand entry not far south of Lahaina.  You'll have company, including snorkel tours that anchor here.  A good option for families.

CORAL GARDENS
     Experienced snorkelers will want to make the swim to this cove, located at the Lahaina side of the highway tunnel.  Check it out from the guardrail above.  You may see tour boats anchored.

NU'U LANDING
     For adventure snorkelers, this is a find on calmer days.  Nu'u is on the isolated south shore.  A short walk leads to tiny clear pockets in a low, lava point.  Could be the next big thing.

Worth a look:  PU'UNOA BEACH (Lahaina), ONEULI (Black Sand) BEACH (Makena), WAIANAPANAPA STATE PARK (Hana), KAPALUA BAY, BLACK ROCK-SHERATON BEACH (Ka'anapali), WASH ROCK (McGregor Point), HALEKI'I Bay (Kaupo)

BIG ISLAND

TWO STEP
     Tabletop sections of a smooth-lava reef provide entry for the best easy-access snorkeling in Hawaii.  Next to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Park.

CAPTAIN COOK MONUMENT
     Kayak, sail, or hike down 1,300 feet to get to this historic spot at the north mouth of Kealakekua Bay---which draws crowds.  A wall of coral lines a near-shore drop-off.


WAIOPAE TIDE POOLS MARINE DISTRICT
     A marine conservation district on the North Puna Coast is the site of numerous, large tide pools rich in sea life.  Otherworldly.


MAHUKONA WHARF
     Step down a ladder at the wharf of an old sugar mill in Kohala.  Ship wreckage adds interest to the snorkel, as do the occasional harmless ray and octopus.


KAWAI POINT
     Experienced flipper fiends can shore-dive where tour boats anchor, from the north end of Kona's Old Airport Beach.

FROG ROCK-KOHALA WATERFRONT
     Only high swells detract from these out-of-the-way snorkeling venues at the south end of the Kohala coast.  Not for novices.

KEALAKEKUA HISTORICAL PARK
     Pick a day when the bodyboarders aren't there (lower surf) and you'll find excellent conditions for the coral hills to the left side of the rocky beach.


Worth a look:  BEACH 69 (Waialea Bay-Hapuna), HONOMALINO BEACH (Miloli'i), KEAHOU SUNDECK (near Sheraton), KAHUWAI BAY (Kona Village), NINOLE COVE (Black Sands-Pahala), MOKU OLA (Coconut Island-Hilo), KEAWAIKI BAY-BROWN'S RETREAT (South Kohala), KOAI'E COVE (Lapakahi State Park), MAKAHA CAVERNS (Makaha)


AND THE WINNER IS...Give the edge to the BIG ISLAND in a slugfest with Maui.  With no stream runoff, the Big Island's near-shore waters sparkle.  Maui has many accessible, easy-entry spots that are not as far apart.  Oahu and Kaua'i tie for third and will deliver the goods---just not in as many places.